Here is a list of abbreviations, words and terms used in the hair care community and what they mean.

 

 

Moisturising: Moisturising is the act of using water or a water based product such as leave in conditioner to moisturise hair; keeping it soft, supple and so avoiding breakage. Hair should be moisturised daily to replenish the water content within the hair shaft. I moisturise in the morning before styling my hair by lightly dampening my hair with water in a spray bottle and distributing leave in conditioner evenly. This also lubricates my hair strands avoiding friction between them which leads to damage and breakage.

 

Sealing: Sealing is the act of using oils such as extra virgin olive oil, castor oil, shea butter, mango butter etc to seal moisture into your hair shaft after moisturising. As oils and water don’t mix, (remember chemistry) applying heavy oils or butters to your hair after moisturising will lock in the moisture from your moisturiser (water/leave in conditioner) and prevent it from evaporating out of the hair shaft.

 

L.O.C Method: The L.O.C Method is a way of moisturising and sealing your hair to keep it soft, supple and so minimise damage through every day actions such as styling. The L stands for a moisturising liquid such as water, aloe vera juice or leave in conditioner, the O stands for natural oil such as extra virgin olive oil and C stands for cream such as whipped shea butter, all applied in this order. Variations of the L.O.C method are L.C.O and L.O.C.O but liquid is always applied first as your moisturiser.

 

Detangling: Detangling is the act of using your fingers or a wide tooth comb to work through tangles in your hair. Detangling and styling should only be done on moisturised hair to prevent friction between hair strands which leads to damage. I detangle on wash day as I pre poo with extra virgin olive oil and 100 percent pure coconut oil in my hair. Detangling doesn’t need to be done daily, excessive use of combs and styling tools puts stress on our hair strands leading to damage and breakage.

 

Co-Wash: Co wash is short for ‘conditioner wash’ and is the practice of washing your hair with a cleansing conditioner instead of shampoo. People co wash as many shampoo’s contain harsh cleansing agents (sulfates) which leave our hair stripped and vulnerable to dryness. I co wash once a week to moisturise and to keep my hair and scalp clean so it can absorb nutrients and moisture.

 

Pree Poo: Pree Poo is short for ‘pre shampoo treatment’ and is when oils and/or a moisturising conditioner is applied to your hair before shampooing to act as an extra barrier between your hair and the harsh, stripping ingredients in shampoo’s.

 

Clarifying: Clarifying is when you use a clarifying shampoo (shampoo containing sulfates), bentonite or rhassoul clay or an acidic agent such as baking soda, apple cider vinegar or lemon juice to deeply cleanse your hair and rid it of any product build up. I clarify once to twice a month depending on how my hair feels and deep condition afterwards as clarifying strips and so dries out your hair.

 

Deep Condition: Deep conditioning is when a moisturising deep conditioner is left on your hair for longer than 30 minutes so that it can penetrate the hair shaft. Some people steam their hair while deep conditioning with a steamer to maximise the moisture being absorbed by their hair. Personally, I cover my head with a shower cap and a warm towel. Deep conditioning moisturises hair and so softens it. You can buy deep conditioners or make your own out of natural ingredients that you can find in your kitchen such as honey, bananas, coconut milk, avocado etc. Google has lot’s of recipe’s.

 

Protein Treatment: As hair is mainly made up of protein bonds (keratin), protein treatments are used to help repair and strengthen hair decreasing the risk of breakage. Chemically processed and damaged hair (relaxed, texturised, dyed, heat damaged) benefit from protein treatments as these chemical processes can break down the keratin bonds within the hair shaft causing damage. Most people do a protein treatment every 4-6 weeks as too much protein can cause an overload making your hair hard, stiff and dry.

 

Heat Damage: Heat damage is when your natural curl patterns loosens due to too much or too high a heat. Direct heat on your hair  (blow drying, straightening etc) causes a chemical change within the hair shaft and so is a chemical process that can melt the protein bonds. Heat damage can happen over time or after one bad application of heat and is generally permanent needing to be cut off.

 

BC: BC is short for ‘big chop’ and refers to when relaxed or damaged ends are completely cut off (not trimmed) leaving you with healthy natural hair. Big chopping is ideal for those who don’t want to deal with the stress of having two different textures on the same strand and want to be natural NOW.

 

Transitioning: Transitioning is when you stop relaxing, texturising or using heat on your hair, allowing your natural hair texture to grow through and trimming the processed/damaged ends of your hair off as it grows. Transitioning is ideal for those who aren’t comfortable with short hair and so don’t want to big chop.

 

Braid Out/Twist Out: Braid outs and twist outs are often worn by naturals as protective styles and to stretch their hair without heat. After moisturising the hair, you braid or twist it up however you like and then leave the braids/twists in overnight (until dry) or for a few days. When taken down you are left with a curly/wavy curl pattern depending on the size of the twist/braid. Transitioners often use braid and twist outs to blend the two different textures together (afro/curly roots and straight ends)

 

Protective Styling: A protective style is a style worn where you hair is left alone/given a break and so not put under the stress of daily manipulation and styling which can cause breakage. Protective styles are braids, twists, weaves, wigs and buns that aren’t taken down and re styled every morning.

 

TWA: TWA is short for ‘Teeny Weeny Afro’ and is used to describe the style/length of someones hair, usually after big chopping.

 

APL: APL stands for Arm Pit Length and is a term used to describe the length of someones hair. (Their hair reaches there armpit)

 

BSL: BSL stands for Bra Strap Length and is a term used to describe the length of someones hair. (Their hair reaches their bra strap)

 

MBL: MBL stands for Mid Back Length and is a term used to describe the length of someones hair. (Their hair reaches the middle of their back)

 

TBL: TBL stands for tail bone length and is a term used to describe the length of someones hair. (Their hair reacher their tailbone) Yes, black hair can grow this long 😀

 

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